The use of CO2 extracts in the cosmetics industry (review article)

CO2 extracts are a valuable complex of natural biological active ingredients, the effectiveness of which is unmatched among all other natural ingredients used in the cosmetics industry. For this reason, CO2 extracts are widely used in the cosmetics industry, they are used in production literally in the entire range of products – creams, gels, tonics, lotions, shampoos, hair masks, lipsticks. You can find out more about CO2 extracts in the overview article of this link.

The effectiveness of using CO2 extracts in cosmetics is also ensured by their lipophilic nature, which has a relative affinity between them and similar compounds that are part of the water-fat structures of the dermis. As a result, the molecules of the biologically active substances contained in the extract can easily penetrate the deep layers of the skin and develop their healing properties. 

What should you watch out for when developing formulations for cosmetic products based on CO2 extracts?

First of all, you should start from the desired effect, what effect your end product should have, for which the end consumer will purchase it. Without a clear idea of ​​the end product (or a whole line), the development of a recipe is always in the dark, without much hope of a meaningful result that is understandable for the consumer. Hence, first of all – the idea.

Once the idea for the end product has been determined, the selection of the extracts can begin. Each CO2 extract is unique in its composition and has its own characteristic effect – usually complex. You can learn the function from specialist literature and reference works, or you can ask us.

We recommend using the extracts in pairs when such an opportunity arises – since most extracts have a complex effect, their “areas of responsibility” often partially overlap. Therefore, it makes sense not to use one extract for the desired function, but two – one as the main function and the second as a “safety net” to extend the necessary effect or in the event that the main function for one reason or another did not work.

We also recommend using not one, but two or three pairs of extracts in the end product – a very clear trend in the market is an increasing demand for complex products that have a complex effect. So even if you do not advertise an additional function of your product besides the main function, the user will still feel this and be satisfied with the pleasant bonus, remember your product and buy it again. Well, you don’t have to be overly humble and you can still write on the packaging that your product has a complex effect. A compelling list of extracts will prove this.

You can order extracts according to the recipe either individually or as a ready-made mixture – we are happy to mix all the necessary ingredients for you, we do not charge a surcharge for this. You can also order ready-made mixtures from us, produced according to used high-quality recipes – to clarify all technical and financial questions, speak to us.

What to do if you are having trouble developing a recipe for the function you want?

In some cases we can help the customer develop a recipe for a new product. This is possible under certain circumstances. If you have received our consent to participate in the development of your product (the terms of such consent are negotiated individually each time), you must provide us with information about 1) the desired function of your product and 2) the marketing rationale of your product.

Both points are important because the marketing basis of the product and the selection of the extracts have a direct effect on the implementation. For example, if your cosmetic line is called ‘Native Herbs’, your recipes should contain chamomile and calendula, not amaranth and ginkgo. Based on the information you have provided, we will try to develop the product that is best for you in terms of quality and price.

Input rates and costs

CO2 extracts are effective when added dosed to the product, even in very small doses. But the higher the dose, the stronger the effect, of course. The most effective dose at which the effect is noticeable when the extract is added starts at 0.2% by weight of the finished product on average. It is recommended to include the most effective doses in the products of the mid-price segment.

It is recommended that extracts with a very strong effect are added to “high” doses – usually an average of 1% or more of the mass of the finished product – in high-quality products so that the buyer can feel the effect well and understand what he is paying for. But it’s also not worth overdoing it, we don’t recommend using more than 2% of an extract. Even if the budget for an ingredient has not run out at such an introduction rate, it is better to add other extracts.

With budget products, it is best not to start from the classic deposit rates, but directly from the budget – if you find it difficult to calculate the recipe yourself, give us the budget, we will try to find out what can be stored there so that it works at least something within the announced numbers.

The typical normal range for the use of CO2 extracts in cosmetic products is 0.2-2% of the mass of the end product. In other units of measurement – 2-20 kg per ton or 2-20 g per kilogram. At current prices, this means a cost burden in the range of around 0,5-5 euro per kilogram, or 0,025-0,25 euro for a typical 50ml pack.

Of course, the above figures are approximate and can vary widely from case to case. The purpose of this article is to familiarize users with only the most general principles and parameters of the use of CO2 extracts in cosmetic products. For more detailed information, contact us – we are always ready to share the latest information with you.

Upon customer request, CO2 extracts can be supplied both in their original form and in the form of oil solutions or emulsions. The range of CO2 extracts used in the cosmetics industry can be found here.